Black actors in Hollywood often face challenges when it comes to hairstyling on set. Many hairstylists are unfamiliar with coily or curly hair textures and may even exhibit microaggressive behavior. However, when a film takes the time to showcase natural hairstyles and does it well, it truly stands out - especially in a period piece.

Highlighting Creativity and Authenticity

Nakoya Yancey, the hair department head for "The Book of Clarence," expresses her love for showcasing the creativity of Black hair in film. From carefully chosen styles to intricate adornments, everything is done to enhance the plot while staying true to the time period. Yancey explains, "I looked back at TV shows that my grandmother would watch, like 'The Ten Commandments,' to get a feel of the kind of ambiance that we were trying to create. But I mainly relied on pictures of African communities from periods like the '40s, '50s, and '60s."

The film features hairstyles inspired by various African tribes and cultures, such as the Hamar and Afar tribes of Ethiopia, Fulani braids from West Africa, and Bantu knots from Southern Africa. Yancey aimed to incorporate these styles while adding her own unique touch.

Embracing Natural Texture

Black hairstylists working on Black period films face a unique challenge: a lack of reference photos from biblical-era films or shows featuring Black people. Despite this, they strive to celebrate and embrace natural hairstyles. Andrea Bowman, a hairstylist for "The Color Purple," emphasizes the importance of honoring natural hair in the film. She states, "Regardless of the looks that we were doing, both our department lead Lawrence Davis and I wanted to make sure that the look was texture-forward while showing off all of the creativity that can be achieved with coily, natural hair."

Caring for Black Hair on Set

Styling natural Black hair is one aspect, but maintaining its health between scenes is another challenge. However, it's a non-negotiable practice for hairstylists like Yancey and Bowman. Bowman emphasizes the importance of detangling and moisturizing the actors' hair throughout the filming process to achieve period-appropriate looks.

Yancey's secret weapon for hair care is frequent steam treatments. She has created a special oil-in-moisturizer concoction that keeps the actors' hair healthy. Yancey explains, "A few dollops of the mix combined with the steam treatment goes a long way in keeping each person's hair healthy."

An Art Form That Deserves Recognition

Styling Black hair is an art that should be taken more seriously in the entertainment industry. Black actors should not have to worry about whether beauty professionals will know how to handle their hair texture. Films like "The Book of Clarence" and "The Color Purple" demonstrate the impact of inclusive hairstylists and makeup artists who are dedicated to their craft. When they work together, the results leave a lasting impression.